Many facets of London, England
For most people, a trip to England means London, and usually conjures up images of Big Ben, or a red telephone booth, maybe the London Eye or the Tower Bridge. Of course there’s also Westminster Abbey, and Buckingham Palace with the Changing of the Guard. But London has lots more to offer.
Jack the Ripper
A killer on the loose (still!)
During my first trip to England to visit my friends Mike and Jan, we decided to do the Jack the Ripper Walk. In the fall of 1888, Jack the Ripper killed at least five prostitutes and mutilated their bodies, all within a mile of each other in London’s East End…and it made headlines. This area of England, notorious at the time for squalor, violence, and crime, also had thousands of brothels and low-rent lodging houses that provided sexual services. The press rarely reports the death or murder of a working girl, so this is a big deal. This is also the very first case involving criminal profiling, and Scotland Yard surmised the killer has knowledge of human anatomy by the nature of the mutilation. The murders remain unsolved and the “Ripper” is still at-large. Maybe a fresh pair of eyes will uncover something useful and help catch the killer…
It’s 7:30 p.m. and the night is dark…
…so our guide needs no help to set the mood. As you go down the alleys and walkways, he describes the scene as it looked in the late 1800s. You vividly imagine the “ladies of the night” hovering in the doorways. People pass you by without so much as a glance, their shadows receding in silence. As the infamous London fog descends, their silhouettes become barely visible in the distance, but their footsteps echo eerily off the walls. Your apprehension grows, and the little hairs on the back of your neck stand on end. As you visit each of the murder sites and examine the evidence, you feel like The Ripper is watching you – daring you to figure out the mystery of his identity. Luckily, the walk ends right by the Tube (subway). You will breathe a sigh of relief once you are safely aboard. This one is highly recommended!
All worlds collide
The Turkish Delight store in Camden market
On my latest trip to England, Mike, Jan, and I visited Camden Market in London. This is a marketplace with a slew of boutique stores and stalls where you can find just about anything for sale. The Turkish Delight lamp shop drew me, with its unusual selection of mosaic light fixtures. Another shop has vintage vinyl records. Next door might be a custom leather shop. There are also cafés and bars scattered throughout.
But wait. What’s that? I hear it faintly…techno music. I follow the sound…like a rat and the Pied Piper of Hamelin. Where is it? I turn the corner, and voilà! Cyberdog! You can’t miss it. A giant robot stands on each side of the entrance. This is the store for really cool, unique club wear – perfect for raves…and Halloween! The owners label the style Cybergoth, and the store set-up resembles an actual multi-level club scene…with live dancers on elevated platforms, and black lights to make everything pop. I’ve never seen anything like it. Even if it isn’t your taste, it’s definitely worth a walk-through just for the experience.
Move over, Bombay Sapphire!
The other discovery we made in Camden Market is even more unexpected. Out of my peripheral vision, I spy a very small corner shop. The sign outside reads Half Hitch Gin. The shop is packed. This is misleading, since only about ten people standing shoulder to shoulder fit inside at a time. It’s a brilliant marketing strategy if you think about it.
My friends make their way over in eager anticipation. I’m not quite as enthused, since I don’t like gin…never have. We wait as the last wave of ten people exit, and we go in. A few more people follow us in, and once again the shop is full. As the gentleman behind the little bar inside tells us about the history of this small batch distillery, he starts to pour samples of Half Hitch Gin into small shot glasses for us to try. I politely decline – there’s no sense in wasting good alcohol.
An unexpected education
Half Hitch Gin
Producing Half Hitch Gin is a three step process, he explains, starting with distillation in the copper pot behind us (right there in the store itself). They use black tea, bergamot (a citrus fruit), wood, hay, and pepper in the process. After he finishes the history of Half Hitch Gin, he invites everyone to join him in tasting it. He describes the experience as you live it. First you notice the citrus overtones. As it goes down, it’s very smooth. Seconds later, he says “Now your cheeks will start to warm.” He describes the several flavors that as they reveal themselves, like peeling back the layers of an onion. And finally there is a hint of cinnamon that lingers on your taste buds. I silently wonder if he’s able to walk a straight line at the end of the day…
Make room in the suitcase!
Then Mike turns to me, and in that distinctly British way says, “This is gorgeous! I’ve never tasted anything like it. My God, you have got to try this!” (I’ve never described food as gorgeous, but it seems pretty commonplace on the other side of the “pond.”) He hands me the glass. Well, what the heck. I bring it to my nose, ready to cringe…
The slight hint of citrus is barely noticeable. I take a small taste. It’s VERY smooth. Just as the man described, my cheeks warmed, a series of flavors present themselves, and a slight cinnamon aftertaste lingers – not unpleasant at all. I’m a convert! But to my dismay, Half Hitch Gin is only available for sale in Washington State on my side of the Atlantic. But no worries….I have plenty of room in my luggage!
Hibiscus Margarita anyone?
We follow-up the gin tasting with a stop at Café Chula for a quick bite. I don’t know how quick it will be, though, because the place is hopping! For weeks leading up to my visit to England, my friends raved about the hibiscus margarita they make here, and I’m curious. (It’s not on the menu, but they will be happy to make it for you!) It did take a while to be seated, but the food was delicious, and the margarita was worth the wait. Since a never-ending stream of people pass by the place, it’s also a great spot for people watching. You could literally spend all day in Camden Market, but we’ve polished off the pitcher of hibiscus margaritas and had our fill of London; so we head out.
Kent County, England offers something for everyone
Folkstone
View of the White Cliffs of Dover from Folkstone pier
My base of operations centers around Folkstone, Kent, where I am staying with my friends. Folkstone is a port town on the English Channel, near the White Cliffs of Dover on the southeast coast of the country. This area is newly serviced by the high-speed line to London (opened 2009), saving you from the dreaded traffic on the M25 or the 2½ hour trek each way on the local train service. A mere hour or so, and you’re there!
Jumbo Jenga with chalky views
Consequently, as you might guess, Folkstone is undergoing a revival. Real estate prices are climbing as more people look to relocate, and the Folkstone Harbor restoration is in high gear. The pier is now home to concerts and events in the warmer months, and it hosts a great year-round view of the White Cliffs of Dover. The cliffs are made of chalk, but they look gray to me. My friends tell me they will shave the cliffs at high season so they look white for the tourists.
Mike, Jan, and Kat by the lighthouse on the pier
A larger-than-life seagull on the pier keeps watch over the harbor, and then doubles as a vending truck selling refreshments in the summer. Then there’s the Greek Bus serving authentic gyros – the bus is pretty cool, too – and the Lighthouse at the end of the pier which serves food and has tables outside. The jumbo Jenga game is keeping a group of children entertained, and France is all of 22 miles away…just across the English Channel. I imagine this is a pretty happening place in May.
Aspendos beckons
Recently, a Turkish restaurant called Aspendos opened in Folkstone, and we went for dinner one evening. Mike and Jan go here regularly, and they were sure I would like it. The floor to ceiling front glass windows offer an unobstructed view and give the restaurant a bit of a NYC vibe. The staff is friendly, and the menu offers a variety of delicious authentic food. The portions are very large by European standards, and the lamb shish kebab is superb. The garlic mushrooms really impress me – I could eat those every day! The house red is surprisingly good, too. But if you have trouble deciding, I recommend the Aspendos Special. That way you get a taste of everything. It won’t disappoint.
Interestingly, the owner Abraham is an Iranian Kurd and not Turkish at all – go figure! He stopped by to make sure everything was to our liking, adding a nice personal touch to our evening. My friends were right, I love it! Find Aspendos at 6 Aspen House, West Terrace, Kent CT20 1TH. Telephone: 01303 241 688…near the World War I Memorial Arch. Make a reservation, or get there early…tables fill up quickly! You can also visit their Facebook page: Aspendos Restaurant.
Battle (the town)
1066 – a pivotal year for England
1066 is the date of the last successful invasion of England. That year William, Duke of Normandy, defeated England’s Saxon army, killed the king (Harold II), and seized the throne in the Battle of Hastings. Although the name suggests otherwise, the battle did not take place in Hastings, but in the nearby town of Battle. William vowed to build an abbey should he win, which he did – becoming William I and earning the name William the Conqueror. True to his word, he then built the Abbey of St. Martin, known as Battle Abbey. The high altar is reputedly on the exact spot where King Harold fell.
View of the Cloisters from the roof of the Gate House at Battle Abbey
Though most of the abbey buildings are gone, the impressive gateway and the cloisters remain. The gateway houses a new 1066 exhibition for this year only (2016), and the rooftop is open for visitors for the first time. The visitor’s center runs a film that gives the run-down of the Battle of Hastings, and the interactive weapons display lets you feel how heavy a sword and shield are. It also houses a café for when hunger strikes, that emphasizes homemade dishes and local produce. Unfortunately, the cloisters are not open for touring at this time.
Thai Orchid
Battle also has a little gem of a Thai restaurant. Thai Orchid is nearby on High Street, and according to their website has the vote for the best Thai food in East Sussex. I can see why. The service is very attentive, and the crispy aromatic duck was very satisfying. It came with vegetables and pancakes to wrap it all up in. Very tasty! My friends raved about the chicken satay appetizer, and followed my lead ordering duck spring rolls that were mouth-watering. The Phad Thai met with their approval, so we give Thai Orchid three thumbs up. I really wanted to try the coconut milk soup – one of my favorites – but I had to save room for dessert. In the end, my eyes were bigger than my stomach and I had no room to indulge my sweet tooth. Kudos!
Hythe
Bryony, Ray, and Kat in Hythe
Hythe is exactly what I picture when I think of a town in England. Nice, well-kept cottage homes with lovely little yards and friendly neighbors in a very rural setting. It’s a mere 6 miles from Folkstone, on the edge of Romney Marsh (known for the sheep). Bryony extended a gracious invitation for lunch, and she’s a great cook. She made a delicious home-made shepherd’s pie and baked apple crisp from scratch with apples from the tree in her yard. I’m truly spoiled. England isn’t known for its food, but Mike and Jan are phenomenal cooks, and Bryony definitely holds her own.
My Ipswich Town goodie bag
Ray made the trek from Ipswich Town to join us, with an Ipswich Town tote bag full of goodies: a place mat, key chain, an official wall planner with every game listed through August 2017, an Elton John tour flyer for a date in June in Ipswich Town, and an official football program with an article Ray wrote published in it entitled, “My ITFC.” Cool! I can call myself an official fan now.
After dinner, Bryony, Ray, and I went for a walk in the countryside, affording Mike and Jan some alone time. We covered quite a bit of ground, passing Saltwood Castle, sheep… sheep… and more sheep, a quaint church, and finally ending up at the local pub for a pint.
Saltwood Castle
It is interesting that I should pass by Saltwood Castle while on our walk in Hythe. At the time I took this photo, I had no idea the importance it would play in the narrative of Canterbury Cathedral. As it happens, the four knights that killed Thomas Becket in the Cathedral on December 29, 1170 met here the day before they assassinated him, presumably to plot his death. Then the next day they rode the 15 miles to Canterbury, did their dirty work, and rode back to Saltwood Castle afterward.
Saltwood Castle in Hythe
In 1955, Kenneth Clark purchased Saltwood Castle. After he died in 1983, his son, Alan Clark and his wife Jane continued to live here. Over the years, the family sold off many heirlooms to keep the castle roof over their heads, including Degas paintings and some of the classic car collection. Alan Clark developed a brain tumor he was convinced his heavy cellular phone use caused. In 1999, this tumor took his life. They buried him on the castle grounds, and his widow Jane inherited the castle, where she still resides. In 2005, Jane Clark sold off Alan’s impressive wine collection to pay for the castle’s upkeep. The 38-lot collection sold for £53,000!
Entrance to Saltwood Castle
Access to the castle is restricted. You must arrange a private or educational visit, or attend a charity function held there. But Saltwood is open to the public twice a year. The next open house is Saturday, April 29th, 2017.
Saint Peter & Saint Paul Church
As the sun sets over England, we trek across the last field toward the small church of Saint Peter & Saint Paul. The doors are locked, so I can’t venture inside. I imagine from its size, that the congregation stems mostly from the local population. It’s no bigger than the average cottage of the area. Headstones and above-ground crypts surround it, and I am wondering how old the oldest one is when Ray disrupts my thoughts with the suggestion of procuring a pint. I am thirsty after that invigorating hike…
Later Mike and Jan chauffeur me back to Folkstone, where I sleep through the night like a baby.
Canterbury
Canterbury Cathedral
Canterbury Cathedral
I never saw Canterbury Cathedral on previous trips to England, so I made it a point to visit this time around. I’m glad I did, as it is absolutely awe-inspiring. But first, let’s get the general layout. The Cathedral is long – 515 feet long to be exact, and runs in an east-west direction. There are several sections that make up the Cathedral, the largest part being the nave at the western end. The word nave comes from the Latin word for a ship (navis). It got the name because the ceiling, which is 82 feet high, looks similar to the inside of a wooden boat. They use the nave for holiday services, concerts, degree ceremonies, and during the summer when more patrons attend.
Bosses on the ceiling at the entrance to the nave
Fourteen full-time stonemasons and 7 stained glass conservators work year round at the Cathedral these days, preserving history for generations to come. Details are all around you – you just have to look closely. For instance, there are little ornate carved shields and faces and sometimes flowers everywhere you look – especially on the ceilings. My friends told me these are called bosses. According to Wikipedia, a boss is a knob or protrusion of stone or wood often in the ceilings of buildings, particularly at the keystones at the intersections of a rib vault.
The windows escape Hitler…
The nave in Canterbury Cathedral
As I enter the nave, I am instantly humbled. The Gothic architecture soars above me – seeming to stretch up to heaven itself. It’s cavernous…would my voice echo? I am tempted to yell out, but manners get the best of me and the question remains unanswered. At the west end is a huge window filled with stained glass, much of which is over 800 years old. Canterbury Cathedral is famous for its stained glass windows, and I spend some time admiring the craftsmanship. During World War II, they removed the windows for safekeeping from Hitler’s air raids. It was a wise decision – when Hitler bombed England, the replacement windows were blown in.
…but the marble font falls in civil war
The 17th Century marble font
On the north side of the nave is a beautiful 17th century marble font (the basin used for baptisms) with a raised domed cover. Four columns support the font, and statues of the four Evangelists (Matthew, Mark, Luke, and John) fill the niches between these columns. A statue of Christ adorns the domed cover at the apex.
In 1642, it is the Crown vs. the Puritan supporters of Parliament in the first of England’s three civil wars, spanning 1642-1651. Parliamentary soldiers badly damaged the font and hid the Evangelist figures in an unused pulpit. William Somner collected the font remains and hid them in the attic of his own house. He had to buy back some of the pieces from the marauding soldiers, and eventually he found the Evangelist statues. The civil wars end, and the conflict of how to govern the kingdoms (not WHO governs them) was finally resolved. When the dust settled, the font was re-assembled, re-consecrated, and in 1663 restored to its position in the nave.
At the center of Canterbury Cathedral…
Wide stairs at the opposite end of the nave soon draw my attention. The stairs are flanked on the south (right side) by an exit from the Cathedral, and on the north (left side) by Martyrdom. If you enter the Cathedral here, instead of through the nave entrance, a passageway beneath the stairs will lead you to Martyrdom without having to cross in front of the steps. From Martyrdom you can access the Chapter House and the Cloister through a side door, and you can also descend into the Crypt from there.
Bell Harry Tower
The stairs themselves lead up to a huge Gothic-styled tower, called the Bell Harry Tower. This tower stands 235 feet tall and was the last major addition to the Cathedral – about 500 years ago, ending 400 years of building. Canterbury Cathedral houses 21 bells in its 3 towers, most of which are named. The oldest bell in the cathedral is Bell Harry. It hangs in a cage at the top of this central tower – hence the name. They strike Bell Harry at 8am and 9pm every day to announce the opening and closing of the cathedral, and occasionally for services.
the choir screen
The choir screen of Bell Harry Tower
Bell Harry Tower fan vaulting, with trap door.
The Bell Harry Tower serves two purposes. First and foremost, it supports a choir screen, shielding the choir from your view if you are in the nave. Originally, sculptures of Christ and the twelve apostles adorned the choir screen, along with the sculptures of shield-bearing angels and of six kings. Only the angels and kings survive today. I look up and see the fan vaulting of Bell Harry Tower. There is a trap door disguised in this ceiling, enabling the second function of the tower…as a means to transport building supplies. This makes work on the roof and in the rafters a little easier. You can hoist tools, supplies, etc. up through the roof as opposed to carrying them up ladders on the outer facade.
the Quire
There is a door in the center of Bell Harry Tower. On the other side of the door lies the quire, which separates the nave from the sanctuary of the cathedral. After a disastrous fire destroyed it in 1174, they rebuilt it in the Gothic style. It has the distinction of being the first Gothic building in England – scratch that – in the United Kingdom, and it is used every day for services. The stone vaulted ceiling here is about 59 feet high. There are dark brown wooden choir stalls – most of which are Victorian, and a brass lectern in the shape of an eagle. Behind it is the High Altar, and St. Augustine’s Chair – the official seat of the Archbishop of Canterbury.
Murder in the Cathedral
Martyrdom
Beyond the quire is the large Trinity Chapel. It is a level higher than the rest of the Cathedral, and an ambulatory surrounds it. They originally built Trinity Chapel as a shrine to Thomas Becket. Thomas Becket was Archbishop of Canterbury from 1162 until his murder in 1170. He clashed with King Henry II of England over Church rights, and four knights loyal to the king (who met at Saltwood Castle) killed him. Martyrdom is the exact place in Canterbury Cathedral where the knights savagely killed Thomas Becket. Today, it is where you’ll see the Altar of the Sword’s Point, named after the blade of the sword used to kill Becket, which broke due to the force of the blow.
As the story goes, a clerk lead the four knights into Martyrdom through a side door that leads from the Cloister. One knight kept people from interfering and aiding Thomas Becket. But the other three could not tear Thomas away from the pillar he clung to. So one of the knights swung his sword, cutting off just the top of Thomas Becket’s head. He swung again and landed another head blow, but Thomas didn’t waver. Another knight dealt a third, devastating blow; breaking his sword in the process. Thomas fell to his knees and elbows. Then the clerk that entered with them stomped on his head, scattering his brains on the floor and finishing the job.
Miracles prompt canonization, pilgrimage, and beautiful stained glass
Soon after Thomas Becket’s death, miracles began to take place, and Canterbury Cathedral became one of Europe’s most important pilgrimage centers. The Pope declared him a saint post-humus, compelling more and more visitors to England to visit his tomb. As St. Thomas’s fame grew, his bones were moved to an opulent gold-covered shrine adorned with precious gems, and elevated in the middle of the Cathedral’s Trinity Chapel.
As you enter Trinity Chapel, you may notice how the steps are worn down by the feet (and sometimes knees) of centuries of pilgrims that came before you. The floors are uneven, and the stone in front of the candle that marks the site of his former tomb has a depression in it – from people kneeling in front of it.
One of the beautiful stained glass windows in Canterbury Cathedral.
Many of the pilgrims visiting the tomb of St. Thomas were illiterate, so stained glass windows were a way to educate and ‘entertain’ them. Canterbury Cathedral has many such windows. The eight windows around the ambulatory of Trinity Chapel show ordinary people experiencing some of the Miracles of St. Thomas Becket after his death, and some of the events leading to his martyrdom.
Greed triumphs in the end
In 1538, King Henry VIII summoned the dead saint to court to face charges of treason. He obviously did not appear; so they found him guilty in his absence. They confiscated the treasures of his shrine and then burned St. Thomas’s bones. The king carried off many cartloads of treasure – 26 by some accounts! – filled with the gold and jewels given over the centuries by people who made the pilgrimage. King Louis VII of France donated a great ruby to the shrine. King Henry made that into a thumb ring. Now it is part of the crown jewels in the Tower of London. After all the treasure was hauled away, King Henry ordered the shrine demolished and St. Thomas Becket’s tomb destroyed. Becket’s images, name, and feasts were obliterated throughout the kingdom, ending the pilgrimages.
Tomb of the Black Prince
The Chapel ambulatory is still home to many tombs of archbishops and royals. Probably the most famous is the final resting place of Edward, Prince of Wales – known as “The Black Prince.” He was the eldest son of a king (Edward III) and the father of a king (Richard II), but was never king himself because he died before his father. The effigy of the Prince in armor is very intricate. It stands out in my mind because his armor also includes chain mail, which I think is unusual for an effigy.
Underneath it all lies the crypt
The Crypt dates back to the 11th Century, making it the oldest existing part of the Cathedral. It is also the largest crypt of its period in England. It doesn’t run the entire length of the Cathedral; just beneath the quire and Trinity Chapel. The Western Crypt is Romanesque in style, with round arches and decorated columns with carved capitals. There are few windows; so it is very dimly lit, and the ceiling is low. An altar stands in the middle, and there is a service in progress, so I try not to intrude.
Modern sculpture
Antony Gormley’s Transport sculpture, hanging from the ceiling, marks the original place of St. Thomas Becket’s tomb.
In the late 12th century, the Eastern Crypt was built. By contrast, it has many windows to allow light to pass. It also has much higher ceilings and incorporates pointed (Gothic) arches among the round ones reflecting the construction trend of the day. Originally, the tomb of Thomas Becket resided here, in the Eastern Crypt. But 50 years after his death they moved it to the Trinity Chapel above. Now Antony Gormley’s sculpture Transport hovers, marking the site of the first tomb of Thomas Becket. This sculpture is made from the iron nails salvaged during the repair of part of the Cathedral roof.
The Jesus Chapel
The Jesus Chapel
The Jesus Chapel, at the “head” of the crypt, forms the base of the Corona Tower. An altar stands inside, and it is roped off, so I can’t get close. On the ceiling, the crowned initials I and M are the initials of Jesus and Mary in Latin. Light streams in from the sides illuminating the altar with its ornately embroidered altar cloth. The colors in the stained glass window behind jump out at you, telling the story of the life of Jesus, ending with his death on the cross. This is where they hold the morning prayers.
12th century wall paintings
Saint Gabriel’s Chapel, on the southeast side of the crypt, now houses some of the oldest Christian wall paintings in the country. They once covered the whole crypt ceiling, but these are the only survivors.
The Warriors and Bernardi Roig
St. Michael’s Chapel – also known as the Warrior Chapel
I particularly liked St. Michael’s Chapel, which is in the center of the Cathedral, near the crypt exit and the passageway to Martyrdom. Once called the Warriors Chapel, it is a memorial chapel for “The Buffs” – the Royal East Kent Regiment. It is very colorful, with all the banners above and light streaming in through the stained glass. A model of HMS Canterbury sits on top of a table draped in red on the far side of the chapel, and the ship’s bell is hung outside the entrance gate, which is locked to my dismay.
Bernardi Roig Exhibition – Sleepless Light Exercises
During my visit, I got to experience the Bernardi Roig Exhibition – Sleepless Light Exercises. It is part of the 2016 Canterbury Festival, and they staged it in the Chapter House. The Chapter House is the largest of its kind in England. It’s where the monks assembled on a daily basis to discuss the Cathedral’s business and read a chapter of their Benedictine rule. The ceiling – made of Irish oak – dates from the early 1400s, and the huge stained glass window is eye-catching. Although the exhibition is a massive display, it is still dwarfed by the expanse of the Chapter House. It is the perfect venue to showcase this particular exhibit.
The beautiful oak ceiling, and the stained glass window inside the Chapter House
The Cathedral grounds
A view of the Cloisters
A stroll through the cloisters and grounds proves peaceful on this sunny afternoon. The brilliant green grass is such a contrast to the gray stone, bringing life to what would otherwise be a very solemn place. It is virtually silent here, except for the occasional sound of a bird chirping. I notice that some of the stone benches have medieval games carved into them, and stained glass accents several archways. I pass by the herb garden, and circle back eventually to the gift shop and the exit.
The Old Weavers’ House
The Old Weavers’ House – Canterbury
Outside the streets of Canterbury are bustling with activity, and we stroll along eventually ending up in front of the Old Weavers’ House. Today this distinctive building – white with black wood accents – is a restaurant. The house stands on the Stour River and takes its name from the Flemish and Huguenot weavers who fled from religious persecution in France in the 16th and 17th centuries. Elizabeth I welcomed the refugees and gave them the right to trade in Canterbury, so they set up shop here. Although the building had other uses over the years, it maintained most of the original 15th century Tudor interior. The restaurant also offers punting boat tours – a unique way to the city. The address: 1-3 St. Peter’s Street.
Deal
Many rural roads in England have no shoulder and wind through the countryside. The tree canopy connects overhead and gives the appearance of driving through a tunnel. As we drive through Kent on our way to Deal for high tea, I marvel at this. Kent has the nickname the “Garden of England” because the area produces tons of fruit, especially apples and cherries…and its Romney Marsh is famous for its sheep. The sheep are all marked to tell them apart. They have big colored blotches on their backs. Some have green spots, others red, and still others blue. I guess it makes it easier to tell your sheep apart, but I chuckle when I envision a shearling jacket with a big blue spot on it.
High tea at The Lane
The Lane is a little restaurant in Deal with a unique twist on afternoon tea. They offer a slice of ham and cheese Quiche, pulled BBQ pork sliders, a cup of broccoli soup with zip, meat pies, fried Camembert, macaroons, and chocolate bark – in addition to the traditional scone, clotted cream, and jam – with your tea. All these goodies show up on a miniature picnic table, and collectively they are extremely filling. High tea is an English tradition I never experienced before, but this is right up my alley! Every time I come back to England, I will try to return here, just for this.
People at surrounding tables ordered a variety of menu items, which all looked very appetizing. Then there are the cakes. A cheesecake baked inside another cake? While England isn’t known for its food, sweets are an entirely different matter. It’s a shame I’m so full. I can’t wait to return another day! Experience high tea yourself at the Lane at 15 South Court, Deal, Kent, CT14 7AF Tel. 01304 448283
Deal Castle
Mike and Jan at Deal Castle
Henry VIII built Deal Castle to defend England from European invasion in 1540. I didn’t visit Deal Castle this trip, but I mention it because I was really taken with it on a previous visit. It has an interesting shape that I always describe as a clover leaf, but that isn’t correct. It’s more like a flower with 6 petals as the outer layer, 6 smaller petals as the interior layer, and crowned with the round center of, say, a daisy. Deal Castle also has very thick walls: 15 feet thick along the outer wall, if I remember correctly. I also remember the enormity of a chandelier at least 6 feet across, and how small the bed in the sleep chamber looked. I imagine people were a bit shorter way back then.
Medway
Fright Night at Fort Amherst
Fort Amherst is a Napoleonic fort steeped in history built primarily to protect England from a French invasion. But each Halloween season they transform it into a venue for fright night…with a theme. (This event is well-organized and has timed entrances, so be sure to make a reservation.) In 2015, it was a pirate theme. This year – dawn of the dead. In keeping with the spirit, my friends and I dressed the part. (I chose a vampire costume.) While the pirate-themed event attendees really got into costuming, we are the only ones dressed up in the crowd tonight.
A Master of Ceremonies greets you and “warms you up” for the evening. Meanwhile, zombies infiltrate the crowd. Beware – here the actors have full rein. So they can touch you – but you cannot touch them. As the M.C. banters with the next wave of victims, the zombies become more aggressive, running their hands through your hair – or screaming unexpectedly in your ear.
The Grim Reaper arrives
Soon the M. C. introduces us to our guide. She is dressed in all black with a flowing cape. Her make-up is haunting, and she is silent – the whole time. She holds a lantern, and when it is time to move on, she raises the lantern and merely points the way. In my mind’s eye, she just needs a sickle to complete the picture. The first order of business is the “I was here” photo. We crowd in and strike a pose. After all the groups in our tour pass this point the real adventure begins.
The actors are extremely good at what they do, and the costuming is very realistic. Each room we enter has a separate theme. The dead nurses in the hospital are particularly frightening. Clips of the exorcist came to mind in one room when a strobe light flashed and all movement seemed quick and jerky. Then the actors would be totally still when the strobe stopped.
Blair Witch project recreated
Another passage recreates running through a dense jungle. The tunnel is short, requiring you to stoop…it’s narrow, and it’s uphill. Branches grab at your clothes from all sides and there is no light until you get two-thirds of the way through. You move quickly, on the verge of panic because your over-active imagination expects that at any moment an actor will jump out from the dark recesses and grab you. After what seems like an eternity you reach the end only to find yourself in a room with no obvious exits! Trapped, like rats in a maze.
It is impossible to maintain a sense of direction through all this. But disorientation is a key component for instilling fear, and it works well on a lot of people. This is also a long tour – over an hour. So they have plenty of time to assault your senses and bring your fear to the surface. A visit here probably spawned the idea for The Blair Witch Project. It may happen that someone in your group is genuinely frightened and has to be escorted out. This is England’s version of Brigantine Castle, folks.
Bella??? Sookie???
You ascend multiple flights of stairs in a winding stairway filled with eerie smoke and emerge into a flat grassy area. You think the tour is over, but you are mistaken. Zombies prey on you as you cross a bridge to another part of the fort. You enter a large room with closed coffins lining both sides. The door slams shut and it’s pitch black. Suddenly a light snaps on. You notice all the coffin lids are now open! Soon you hear them…as they go about with their hungry fangs sniffing out their human dinner. One by one they drag us to coffins and shut us inside. Then they bang on the lids signalling their victory.
These are my people, so as much as I want to take a short nap…they leave me alone, thinking I’m one of the actors. After the hunt is over, the lights go out again shrouding us in darkness. They turn back on after all the actors are tucked snugly back inside their coffins. The lantern lifts, the finger points, and we are outside again.
Fright Night at Fort Amherst
The tour ends in Fort Amherst Café where you can view and purchase your entrance photo, kick back and have a drink, and generally unwind from your terrifying ordeal. On the patio they set up a mini carnival for entertainment, but it’s late and most people are already on their way home. Tomorrow I leave England and head back across the pond. Fright Night at Fort Amherst was a great way to wind up my visit to Merry Old England!